Madeira, Portugal
Introduction
Madeira is one of those places that stays with you long after you leave. People call it the Hawai’i of Europe, and I honestly get why. Jagged volcanic cliffs, mountains high enough to touch the clouds, lush forests that feel almost prehistoric, and natural swimming pools carved out of black lava rock. Despite being a small island, every corner feels like you’ve stepped into a completely different landscape.
I spent 5 days here, though I’d recommend at least 7. Why? Because Madeira’s weather is unpredictable, and it got the best of me. Two of my days were completely washed out by storms. I’ll admit—I was frustrated at the time—but Madeira taught me something about slow travel and not forcing plans. Even with the rain, I left in awe.
Madeira is one of those places that stays with you long after you leave. People call it the Hawai’i of Europe, and I honestly get why. Jagged volcanic cliffs, mountains high enough to touch the clouds, lush forests that feel almost prehistoric, and natural swimming pools carved out of black lava rock. Despite being a small island, every corner feels like you’ve stepped into a completely different landscape.
I spent 5 days here, though I’d recommend at least 7. Why? Because Madeira’s weather is unpredictable, and it got the best of me. Two of my days were completely washed out by storms. I’ll admit—I was frustrated at the time—but Madeira taught me something about slow travel and not forcing plans. Even with the rain, I left in awe.
This is my guide to Madeira: what I loved, what I missed, and how I’d do it different if (when) I return.
This is my guide to Madeira: what I loved, what I missed, and how I’d do it differently if (when) I return.
Funchal: My Base in Madeira
I stayed in Funchal, the island’s capital, and used it as my base to drive everywhere else. Madeira is small enough that this works—crossing the whole island only takes about 1.5 hours.
Funchal itself is lively and full of character. Here are some of my favorite experiences:
Photo by Ronan Carr
Photo by Ronan Carr
- Whale & Dolphin Tour – One of my top memories. We did a sunset trip, and dolphins literally swam beneath our boat. Three hours of pure magic, and it only cost around 30€.
- Rua de Santa Maria – The “open doors” street. Each door is painted with its own artwork, and it feels like walking through an outdoor gallery.
- Mercado dos Lavradores – A farmers market from the 1940s, full of fruit, flowers, and fish stalls. Even if you don’t buy anything, it’s worth wandering.
- Monte Palace Tropical Garden – Multi-level gardens with sculptures and exotic plants. I felt like I stepped into a fantasy film.
- Viewpoints – The island is obsessed with miradouros (lookouts), and I get it. My favorites in Funchal were Miradouro da Vila Guida and Miradouro do Lombo da Quinta.
Photo by Ronan Carr
Photo by Ronan Carr
- Whale & Dolphin Tour – One of my top memories. We did a sunset trip, and dolphins literally swam beneath our boat. Three hours of pure magic, and it only cost around 30€.
- Rua de Santa Maria – The “open doors” street. Each door is painted with its own artwork, and it feels like walking through an outdoor gallery.
- Mercado dos Lavradores – A farmers market from the 1940s, full of fruit, flowers, and fish stalls. Even if you don’t buy anything, it’s worth wandering.
- Monte Palace Tropical Garden – Multi-level gardens with sculptures and exotic plants. I felt like I stepped into a fantasy film.
- Viewpoints – The island is obsessed with miradouros (lookouts), and I get it. My favorites in Funchal were Miradouro da Vila Guida and Miradouro do Lombo da Quinta.
And if you want a touristy-but-fun experience: take the cable car up to Monte, then ride down in the traditional wicker toboggans. Yes, it’s silly. Yes, it’s worth it.
Hiking: Madeira’s Greatest Gift
If you love hiking, Madeira will ruin you for other destinations. The trails here aren’t just beautiful—they’re otherworldly.
Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo
This was the hike I’d been dreaming of. A 12km trail across jagged mountain ridges that makes you feel like you’re walking on the spine of a dragon. At one
point, we were literally above the clouds. It’s challenging but unforgettable—give yourself 6 hours and pack plenty of snacks.
Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo
This was the hike I’d been dreaming of. A 12km trail across jagged mountain ridges that makes you feel like you’re walking on the spine of a dragon. At one point, we were literally above the clouds. It’s challenging but unforgettable—give yourself 6 hours and pack plenty of snacks.
Fanal Forest
Imagine an ancient laurel forest shrouded in mist. That’s Fanal. Early in the morning, the fog hangs low and transforms the trees into something straight out of a fantasy novel.
You can either wander the forest itself or take one of the nearby levada hikes like Levada dos Cedros, which ends in a waterfall where you can swim.
Levada das 25 Fontes
This is where the weather got me. We made it to the entrance, walked in the pouring rain for about 30 minutes, and gave up. Miserable. But in good weather, it’s supposed to be one of the most rewarding hikes, with waterfalls all along the way. I’m still bitter.
Levada do Caldeirão Verde
An easier 12km hike through tunnels, waterfalls, and deep green valleys. I loved how it felt more like an adventure walk than a “serious” hike. Bring a flashlight for the tunnels.
Photo by Ronan Carr
Ponta de São Lourenço
At the easternmost tip of Madeira, this trail feels like the edge of the world. Volcanic cliffs, jagged rocks, and crashing Atlantic waves—it’s dramatic in
the best way. Just don’t make the same mistake I did—starting too close to sunset. We ended up hiking back in the dark. Terrifying.
Photo by Ronan Carr
Ponta de São Lourenço
At the easternmost tip of Madeira, this trail feels like the edge of the world. Volcanic cliffs, jagged rocks, and crashing Atlantic waves—it’s dramatic in the best way. Just don’t make the same mistake I did—starting too close to sunset. We ended up hiking back in the dark. Terrifying.
Fun fact: parts of Star Wars: The Acolyte were filmed here. Locals wouldn’t stop talking about it when I visited.
Beyond the Trails
Madeira isn’t just hiking. Some of my favorite experiences were actually outside the mountains.
- Seixal – A small town on the north coast with stunning viewpoints (Miradouro do Véu da Noiva was my favorite) and natural swimming pools. I dipped in even though the water was freezing. Worth it.
- Achadas da Cruz – Home to the steepest cable car in Europe. I don’t love heights, but I forced myself on it. At the bottom, you’ll find abandoned stone houses and wild coastline. Spooky, but cool.
- Santana – Famous for its colorful A-frame thatched houses. A quick stop, but iconic.
- Porto Moniz – Larger volcanic swimming pools than Seixal, with facilities where you can spend hours relaxing.
- Cabo Girão Skywalk – A glass platform over one of Europe’s highest cliffs. Terrifying if you look down, but the views are insane.
Film photo by Ronan Carr
Food & Drink
Madeira is worth visiting just to eat and drink.
- Poncha – The island’s signature drink (rum, honey, and lemon). Strong enough to make you forget your sore hiking legs.
- Espada com banana – Black scabbard fish with banana. Sounds wrong, tastes right.
- Bolo do Caco – Garlicky flatbread that comes with almost every meal. I ate way too much of it and regret nothing.
- Madeira wine – The island’s most famous export. Do a tasting if you can.
My 5-Day Itinerary (What I Did + What I Missed)
Day 1 – Arrived in Funchal, explored the city.
Day 2 – Hiked Pico do Arieiro → Pico Ruivo. Sunset whale & dolphin tour.
Day 3 – Fanal Forest (morning), failed attempt at Levada das 25 Fontes (afternoon).
Day 4 – Explored the north coast: Seixal, Porto Moniz, Achadas da Cruz.
Day 5 – Levada do Caldeirão Verde, Ponta de São Lourenço at sunset (got lost in the dark).
What I wish I had: one more day for Santana and Cabo Girão, and at least one rest day for my legs.
If I could do it again, I’d recommend 7 days. That way, you get to spread out the hikes, have recovery days, and not feel rushed.
Practical Tips
- Getting around – Rent a car. Public transport is minimal, and you’ll miss a lot without one. Get the smallest car you can—roads and parking in Funchal are tight.
- Weather – Madeira has microclimates, so if it’s raining on one side, check the other. But buy flight insurance. I didn’t, and it cost me.
- Gear – Hiking shoes, layers, and a flashlight for tunnels.
- Budget –
- Meals: 10–30€ per meal
- Lodging: 50–100€ per night (Airbnb or budget hotel, no hostels)
- Car rental: 20–70€ per day
- Activities: 10–40€ each
Final Thoughts
Madeira wasn’t the trip I expected—it was the trip I needed. I lost two days to storms, got lost on a trail, and nearly cried on a cable car. And yet, it’s still one of my favorite destinations ever.
Madeira forces you to slow down. To accept the weather. To work for the views. And it rewards you every single time.
If you want beaches, hikes, food, and adventure all in one small island, Madeira is it. And trust me: five days isn’t enough.
Madeira wasn’t the trip I expected—it was the trip I needed. I lost two days to storms, got lost on a trail, and nearly cried on a cable car. And yet, it’s still one of my favorite destinations ever.
Madeira forces you to slow down. To accept the weather. To work for the views. And it rewards you every single time.
If you want beaches, hikes, food, and adventure all in one small island, Madeira is it. And trust me: five days isn’t enough.
